Kupa Thumbnails Chapter 10: How to Properly Use GelFinity from Brush to Embellishment
TIPS FOR APPLYING A FORM
Pinch the sides of your Kupa Infinite Form together before applying. Pinch the nail form even if you’re doing a square nail shape — this makes it easier to center the nail enhancement and create a round C-curve. Making sure the form has a perfect fit is especially important when sculpting gel nails. Tuck the form under the free edge using the lines on the form as a guide. Pinch the sides of the form at the free edge after applying. For a coffin nail shape, apply the form as you would for a stiletto. Although the nail won’t be extended all the way to the point, the shape will ensure that the nail tapers in correctly, saving time on filing.
PRO TIP: When starting out using nail forms apply one form at a time before sculpting the nail — if you apply multiple forms, they may shift and require adjustment, wasting time.
THE GELFINITY BRUSH
The GelFinity Gel Brush has a lightweight aluminum body, a stainless steel barrel, and an ultra fine red sable tip. It also features a retractable dotting tool, perfect for detail work and adding gemstones or small dots of color, and an aluminum top to protect the brush when not in use. The brush is treated with a starch resin before shipping to keep it pristine on delivery. Before using the brush for the first time, season your brush by gently manipulating the tip with your fingers to break apart the fibers, then dip it in 90% alcohol and press it against the sides of your dappen dish to remove the resin.
Remove shine from nail with a buffer or use the MANIPro Passport with a fine sanding band at a very low speed (about 7,000-8,000 RPM) to lightly buff close to the cuticle. Remove dust and prep with Peace Nail Prep before applying Love Acid-Free Primer. Apply GelFinity Gel Base. When applying the base coat, wiggle the brush a little bit to work the base coat into the nail. This will help make sure the base coat thoroughly covers the nail. Be sure to cap the end of the nail when applying base coat.
Start by wetting your brush in the gel and apply it thinly to the entire nail. Then add a medium size bead of gel where the free edge ends and drag the gel into the shape you want. The thick builder gel stays where you want to place it — it won’t self level. Glide it on evenly and easily using the tip of the brush, dragging the gel into shape. Cure for 60 seconds, remove the nail form, and cleanse the top and bottom of the gel enhancement with cleanser before filing. Use a medium grit e-file bit to shape the nail, or use a fine bit if you’re not as comfortable with the e-file. Gel is soft and needs less filing than acrylic.
PRO TIP: Some nail techs use Gel Base on top of acrylic enhancements before applying gel-polish as well, creating a smoother finish.
Apply a thin layer of gel to the nail so you have a wet surface when adding glitter. Place a little gel on your brush and dip it in glitter, then apply it thin and even to the nail. Because the surface is already wet, the glitter will stick wherever you place it.
PRO TIP: If you work with a lot of glitters and don’t want to contaminate your container, try scooping a little bit of gel onto the back of a nail form for glitter application.
CREATING A GLITTER DOME
Dip your brush in the gel just enough to wet it and lay out the area where the glitter bead will go on the nail. Add several layers of glitters in your desired colors, dipping the brush in gel before picking up each color. The gel will hold the glitter down. When you’re happy with your glitter look, flash cure for 30 seconds.
To create the dome, apply Thick Clear GelFinity builder gel in a good sized bead and place it onto the area with the glitter. Once the bead has been placed, turn the hand upside down for 10-15 seconds to let gravity pull it into a round shape. To make sure the dome hardens fully, cure for at least three to four minutes.
Thin chains from jewelry such as earrings can be great additions to nail designs. To place a chain around your glitter dome, create a thin circle of gel around the dome. Make sure the chain is the right length to go around the dome and use tweezers to place it in the circle of gel. Make sure it’s snug around the globe. When you’re happy with the placement, cure for 30 seconds.
To add pearls or gems, lightly place gel on the nail and place the items. Add more gel around them to secure them. When you’re happy with the placement, cure. Cleanse the nail before applying the top coat. Apply Gelfinity LED/UV Gloss Gel Topcoat over the entire nail, including embellishments, for a high-shine finish. This no-wipe top coat will protect pearls and gems without diminishing their shine. Using a LED/UV lamp, flash cure for 10 seconds before moving on to the next nail, then cure the entire nail when you’re finished.
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