Kupa Thumbnails Chapter 9: Tips for Applying Acrylic Nails
Kupa’s new three-in-one ArtFinity TripTych colors are a triple threat: The acrylic powder can be used for ombre nails, 3-D nail art, and as a dipping system. The brand offers 48 colors in five collections with eight colors per collection.
These tips will help you create a perfect, long-lasting application, create an ombre nail, and learn how to encapsulate items such as foil in acrylic.
PREP
Start out by prepping the nail (watch an example here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSUP2WZcIpk). Be sure to push back the cuticles thoroughly using your MANIPro Pusher, dehydrate nails, and make sure the nail bed is free of dead skin or oils so that the product will adhere properly. Don’t forget to apply Divinity Peace Nail Prep and Divinity Love Acidless Primer before applying acrylic.
NAIL FORMS
When fitting the Divinity Infinite Sculpting Nails Forms, make sure that it’s well underneath the nail (watch application tips here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leVMEue-cjM). Don’t push too hard — you don’t want to hurt the client. For an almond nail, the form has to be angled down slightly, allowing a deeper C-curve. To create the correct angle, make a mark or indentation at the place where the nail plate meets the form. Then make small cuts at a 45-degree angle in those places, allowing the form to be angled.
ACRYLIC APPLICATION
It’s important to use the correct ratio of liquid to powder in order to create
an acrylic bead. The bead should be round and have a smooth surface. If the bead is too wet, it may flatten on the brush; if it is too dry, it will have a dry, powdery surface. Achieving the correct ratio takes practice and repetition.
Be sure to apply acrylic close to the cuticle, but do not actually touch it — this could cause the nail to lift. The acrylic should be very thin near the cuticle so that the nail has the correct structure. It’s important to construct a high apex on the nail so that it has full strength.
Once you have laid down the acrylic, don’t immediately begin swiping or pressing with the brush — wait a few seconds first. If the product is too wet, you will pull the product off again with your brush.
Pinch the nail using the Techtool 4 IN 1 Pincher Tweezer to create a narrower look. When you pinch the nail, be very careful that the product isn’t too wet or soft. If the product is wet or soft, pinching it may break the nail or cause an indentation, weakening the enhancement.
Finish the nail by filing. The K-Star 3-in-1 medium silver bit is good for working near the cuticle. Be sure to use a slower speed when working near the cuticle. The KP-60 Handpiece MANIPro is a new handpiece that is so light and small that some nail techs have said it feels hollow. It’s comfortable for techs to use all day.
GETTING FANCY
Ombré: Start with your first color near the cuticle area and fade it down toward the free edge. Then wet the acrylic slightly with monomer, apply the second color at the tip, and quickly fade back from the tip. Add a little more coverage with a second bead of acrylic if necessary. Use clear acrylic to encapsulate the nail, dragging the acrylic down the nail while it’s still very wet and using a light touch so you don’t drag the product off on the brush.
Encapsulation: When encapsulating products such as foil or holographic paper, be sure to leave a margin of uncovered product around the edges or the nail so that it encases properly. When you apply clear acrylic over your embedded material, it must adhere to the acrylic below.
To watch a video tutorial on achieving the ombré technique, click here: Ombre French Ballerina Style Nails presented by Kupa Inc
Leave a comment